Trekking The Inca Trail To Machu Picchu - By Lisa Ballard October 09, 2019
June 22, 2024
In 2008, I traveled to the Cordillera Blanca region of the Peruvian Andes to go trekking. When I returned home, my family thought it a sacrilege that I had gone to Peru but had not seen Machu Picchu, the iconic UNESCO World Heritage Site built by the Incas during the 15th century.
Remote places in the world, not tourist meccas, have always drawn me. While trekking to Machu Picchu had appeal, back then, an average of 15,000 people per day visited the ruins, not only on foot, but also by train and bus. Not exactly a backcountry experience!
This September, I had the chance to do the classic four-day trek to Machu Picchu as a guest of Alpaca Expeditions. My chance to visit Machu Picchu had come.
The 30-mile trek challenged me.
Starting at the trailhead at Piskacucho (8,923 feet), we climbed steadily to our first campsite, Ayapato (10,829 feet). It was dry and dusty as we trudged along the narrow trail with burros, locals and porters, past giant agave and prickly pear.
The second day, we climbed over two high passes. I felt euphoric cresting the first, Dead Woman’s Pass (13,799 feet). The second pass, Runkurakay (13,123 feet), was lower but an even steeper climb, up a gazillion tiny, ancient rock steps.
Going downhill never felt so good, until the next day.
On day three, now in the upper Amazon rainforest, we hiked over one more pass, Phuyupatamara (12,073 feet), then went down, down, over 3,000 feet, interrupted only by intermittent Incan ruins and stubborn llamas.
Rain and fog blocked the view of the snow-capped 20,000-footers that surrounded us.
I was glad for my LOWA Badia GTX’s, which kept my feet comfy and dry! On the last day, we got up at 2:45am to be the first through the check point into the Machu Picchu Sanctuary (park). With great anticipation, we came to the “Oh My God” stairs, also called the “Gringo Killer”, a near vertical 45-step ascent to the Sun Gate. The OMG stairs weren’t a problem after humping it over two 13,000-foot passes. Then we plunged into the masses.
“Only” 5,000 people per day are now allowed into Machu Picchu.
The crowds suffocated me. Luckily I had a permit to climb Wayna Picchu, another near vertical mountain that towers over the ruins. A 1000-foot, steep ascent aided by fixed cables, I welcomed the chance to climb hard again.
From the top, I gazed upon the famous Incan citadel in all of its glory. The tourists had dissolved into specks on the lush landscape. I am happy for the chance to see Machu Picchu, however the real highpoints of the trek were the highest points on the trail.
I can always rely on my LOWAs to help me escape the throngs.